Friday, June 27, 2008
The Way.
On the main road just past the Dollar-UP Store is a dirt road that heads back into the mountains. About a quarter of a mile down the road you’ll pass several houses. The very last house has two of the meanest dogs on the island. Not only that, they’re sneaky too. They like to hide under the broken down minivan on the side of the road next to the house. Be sure to fill your pockets with good throwing rocks and carry a stick. Last time I was there I hit one of the dogs with a rock, but that only seemed to make him madder. Only after the owner came out and kicked the dog in the throat did it stop snarling at me.
Once you pass the bad dogs, you’ll cross a small concrete bridge and the road will start to climb gently back towards the mountains. Keep going. Soon you’ll see small banana farms and orange trees along the side. The road gets a bit overgrown in places but you’ll be able to see where you’re going.
Another quarter of a mile or so and the road comes to an end in a small clearing. This is where it gets fun. On the left hand side you’ll see a small trail that heads down a steep muddy hill. The mud is soft, so try not to get your sandals stuck. It’s not uncommon to find yourself suddenly calf deep in dark red mud. Good luck trying to get your cheap plastic sandal out of there once it’s in.
Fortunately the trail twists through the mud and thick jungle for only about 50 yards. First you’ll hear and then see the river. It’s a pretty good place to rest for a moment and wash the mud off your legs.
Here’s where the trail ends, but it’s not the end of the walk. Step into the river and start heading up stream. Even after a pretty heavy rain, the water won’t be much deeper than mid-waist in most parts. Just hold your bag over your head while you wade though the deeper parts.
Follow the steam upriver for about 20 minutes. In a few spots it will pool up and be deep enough to swim in. There’s a section where a pool forms along a steep rock wall. The thick Tarzan vines that hang down from the wall into the water can hold your weight and are fun to swing around on for a bit.
A little bit further up stream and the jungle will suddenly open up. The canopy will still keep you in the shade, but now it will be 200 feet overhead. The river will split here. If you follow the spur to the right, about 100 yards further you’ll find a small waterfall with a pool you can splash around in.
To the left of the other spur the jungle rises pretty steeply for about 20 feet. If you scramble up the slope you’ll find what’s left of an old settlement. In at least six different places you’ll be able to find the stone foundations for local houses.
But don’t tell anyone I told you about it. The anthropologists haven’t found this spot yet. Let’s let them be surprised when someone finally bothers to show them where it is.
Labels:
dogs,
hiking,
Micronesia,
river,
ruins
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2 comments:
NOW you tell me.
Sorry Dan. But next time you go back to visit you'll know.
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